Note that we hung all our full sheets in the middle of the room, then finished up the outer edges last…see the edges missing above?? If the wall is to be built, make sure you have wall requirements listed in you’re bid. BUT…If I do it again, I’ll do it on top of drywall. Look in the AWI Quality Standards for an extensive, clear and well illustrated discussion of panel types and hanging methods. That’s pretty standard practice. Please do not remove any watermarks, crop, or edit any of my images. Take it up a notch and use hardwood plywood in media rooms or dens, or add a special touch to vaulted or dro… The final step was to trim the plywood ceiling out to cover the seams. Plywood edges in particular are very unfriendly. We did have someone come and blow insulation on top of it in the attic space to help seal and insulate our living space. You do want to pre-drill a clearance hole through the plywood for the body size of the wood screws. So I’ll just reattach the loose piece and go on about my business. Use screws, not nails. If you nail the panels, use a drywall hammer to dimple the drywall surface with the final blow on each nailhead. You can get reasonably acceptable results with glue, but I have never really been pleased and it sometimes takes a great deal of effort and ingenuity to get an acceptable result. Before I go, I’ll go over a few Frequently Asked Questions about the plywood ceiling…because I’ve been asked A LOT of questions . Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window), I have a whole series about the building process here, (See this post for how to cut plywood sheets). Plywood base on walls Have at it, no reason to hit the studs. If the wall is really good, you can machine the back of the panel in the four corners for the z-clip then apply the z-clip mate directly to the wall with a sheetrock screw and a dab of panel adhesive to the z-clip and back side of the panel. To attach drywall to a ceiling, position a pair of stepladders or set up sturdy sawhorses and planks to serve as a low scaffold. The furring strips can be fastened to the wall, hopefully hitting a stud or two with a little line of panel adhesive. For a detailed guide on cutting plywood sheets, check out this post. The sheets tended to sag in the middle, so Danny and I screwed the sheets into the ceiling while my dad supported the center. Do not use your ceiling or floor as your guide when determining the location of the cabinets on the wall. It’s been almost two years and we haven’t had any issues. We’ve talked about doing something similar again in our real house (whenever we get around to building it), but if we do, we want to finish the ceiling drywall (well…have SOMEONE ELSE finish it) first so that the air is sealed off. You can cut various thickness of furring strips to apply to the wall, the most common one being a piece of ¼ MDF say 3”x 22”. Do not forget to add the thickness of the wall covering (drywall) to the length of the screws. Z-clips are ¼” thick so this leaves you a ¼” shim or furring space to the wall. I used 2″ brad nails and secured these into the trusses in several locations. Because this is a grid and the room is so long, I had to butt a lot of trim pieces up to each other. You can hang the plywood panels with french cleats to minimize damage to the walls. As brick walls may be uneven or textured, you may need to use plywood sheets, which will also prevent possible damage to the drywall. Since we were trimming the edges out later, these screws will be covered. Because we installed all the seams along the trusses (remember how we made sure all the edges could screw into a truss?? This just helps keep air from seeping through the ceiling and causing high heat and cooling bills. I nailed the two together, then installed as one piece along the edges. Take the panel thickness to 1”. This will give you a hollow area to on the backside of the panel. A drywall anchor goes between the screw and the drywall, biting into the drywall much more effectively than a screw would. So far so good…but you may want to consider screws. Get some Z-clips about 2” to 3” long and mount them in the four corners. I don’t think the ceiling is going to just one day fall down on me or anything. Lumber prices vary by location and prices change all the time so your cost won’t necessarily be the same as mine. You should always have wall requirements listed in all wall-paneling bids, new or existing. 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